Chefs Speak Out: Ellie’s Takes the Cake
10 December 2014An award-winning pastry chef and talented baker and cake artist bring their seasonally inspired, artisanal confections to life at this Parisian-style Rhode Island bakery.
As a young teen Melissa Denmark, CC, was constantly reading cookbooks and applying what she learned in the kitchen. An avid baker, she joined a mentorship program at a French restaurant during her final year of high school. That early training led her to the pastry-arts program at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., where she graduated summa cum laude.
After working at a Ritz-Carlton property in Florida, Denmark went on to work with a cake decorator in Maryland and for Bobolink Dairy Farm and Bakeyard in New Jersey. It was during her latter stint that she came to appreciate the importance of sustainability and using farm-raised foods.
Now Denmark, pastry chef of Providence-based Gracie’s, in collaboration with Ellie’s Bakerylead baker and cake designer Sara Reilly (also a JWU pastry graduate), proudly presents the newest addition to Ellie’s collection of sweets with the bakery’s seasonal Cake Collection and wedding-cake program.
Following the mission of sister restaurant Gracie’s—to enhance and educate the palate with the freshest ingredients and flavors—all of Ellie’s Bakery cakes are made with the highest-quality, seasonally inspired ingredients, and are a true reflection of the bakery’s commitment to creating perfect artisanal confections.
The collection features flavors and textures not commonly seen at most cake shops, drawing inspiration from Denmark and Reilly’s experience with plated desserts—layering flavors and using different textures so that each and every bite is a culinary experience.
Denmark’s creativity is influenced by local produce and seasonality. “I love to take classic flavors and make them special and different by putting an Ellie’s twist on them,” she says. “For instance, the inspiration behind our signature Bon Anniversaire cake is taking a classic American birthday cake—vanilla cake with chocolate frosting—and pairing it with the traditional birthday cake in Paris: croquembouche.”
Earlier this year, Denmark was honored as a 2014 StarChefs.com Rising Star Pastry Chef for the Coastal Region. She has also been named one of Food & Wine magazine’s “50 Best New Pastry Chefs” in the country.
Reilly’s cake design is classic, naturally beautiful and rustic. The cakes are made using only butter, cream, fresh fruits, chocolate and edible flowers and herbs as decoration. The simplicity of the design allows the complex flavors to shine.
“We avoid using fondant and gum paste, because they take away from the flavor of the cake,” says Reilly, who, like Denmark, is a graduate of JWU’s pastry-arts program. “I like to focus on the beauty of the design, but the most important part is how it tastes. I draw inspiration from classical French pastries, with a modern flair.” Reilly is also a master at wheat-free desserts.
The Cake Collection changes seasonally. Custom cakes for any celebration are available upon request, including consultations for wedding-cake design.
Following are selections from Ellie’s Bakery’s 2014 Winter Collection:
Autumn Berry Upside Down
Autumn spiced cake, Autumn berry jam, cranberries, crème fraîche buttercream
Peppermint Cookies & Cream
chocolate cake, peppermint ganache, cookies & cream buttercream, peppermint bark
Wheat-Free Almond Biscotti
sponge cake, almond anise dacquoise, orange almond buttercream, pistachio, dried cherries, dark-chocolate glaze
Bon Anniversaire
vanilla cake, chocolate sour-cream buttercream, topped with a croquembouche
Ellie’s Bakery is inspired by the Parisian way of life; a place where everyone cherishes simple pleasures. Each smell, taste and sip promises wholesome goodness and a delightful awakening of the senses. Guests partake of freshly baked breads, pastries, sandwiches, goodies, provisions and local tea and coffee. Ingredients are sourced responsibly from local farms and producers. The bakery holds avocational classes twice a month, and also offers breakfast and lunch catering. Additionally, Ellie’s offers custom gift baskets and favors.
Meanwhile, Gracie’s has its own rooftop garden where edible flowers, greens and vegetables flourish and find a special place in many of dishes. Each night, the Chef’s Tasting Menu is available, as well as a three-course pre-fixed menu, expertly paired with wine selections from around the world.
Pictured:Melissa Denmark, CC (l.), and Sara Reilly. Courtesy of JWessel Photography