So what does that mean? Diners choose you because you offer something they can’t make themselves or find elsewhere, Ludwig said: bold, well-prepared flavors with a twist. Does that include meatloaf and mac & cheese? You bet, if it’s better than Mom’s. So not only must a restaurant stand out by making it better than a diner might make it at home, but it also has to do it better than the restaurant down the street. Any restaurant’s competition, Ludwig said, is generally within a 3-mile radius.

The “small plate” trend is really the “shared plates” trend, Ludwig said. A majority of consumers want to experience a lot of tastes. While a lot of white-tablecloth places are losing the white tablecloths, one thing casualization is NOT about is trading down.

Daniel Boulud’s DBGB Kitchen & Bar in New York City serves upscaled street foods such as a pork-and-cheddar link with red-onion crème fraîche on china. Paul Kahan’s The Publican in Chicago is a beer-focused restaurant with an eclectic menu inspired by simple farmhouse fare. Kitchenette in San Francisco Twitters to alert fans to its high-end lunch of the day served from the loading dock, like a recent charcuterie box and a hunk of grilled bread for $8.

And don’t apologize for deep-fried; research proves that if it’s fabulous, diners will come.

Ludwig wrapped up by saying that while chefs are becoming more serious about the food they’re serving, they’re becoming less serious about everything else. That’s one reason we’re seeing fewer chefs doing really good food within elegant, richly appointed spaces. Take for example restaurants such as Urban Belly in Chicago, owned by celebrated Chef Bill Kim, which is located in a strip mall, and his newest restaurant, Belly Shack, which operates under an El track with a menu of Korean/Puerto Rican fusion. Kim, who would inspire any aspiring culinarian with his street cred that includes chef de cuisine at Charlie Trotter’s and executive chef of Le Lan, swapped his toque for a bandanna long ago.