Recently, I have noticed several admired chefs developing delicious combos of brothy apple goodness—dishes that have elicited responses of both surprise—“Apples in soup? Who knew!?” and delight—“Oh, wow—that’s fantastic!”—so, I asked a few of these chefs why they chose my humble favorite ingredient. Turns out this common kitchen staple makes an uncommonly good soup ingredient.

Chef Christopher Greer of Tabor Tavern in Portland, Ore., pairs tart apples and apple cider with Brussels sprouts—vegetable-patch stepchild turned ubiquitous menu mainstay—in a broth-based beauty of a soup. He recalls the inspiration was a basic apple and cabbage pairing with a fun twist. Greer’s favorite apples for soups and pies are the firm, tart Granny Smith and the aptly named Honey Crisp because their texture, he says, holds up without becoming grainy. When time allows, he suggests roasting apples in a 500°F oven until golden brown to get a robust, caramelized flavor before adding to soup. And, he typically adds apple cider to apple soups to reinforce the apple flavor.

Another liquid concoction frequently on the Tabor menu is his Potato, Apple and Blue Cheese Soup. Apples and blue cheese are a favorite Greer flavor combo, so marrying them in soup was, he said, “a no- brainer.” The tartness of his variety choices smartly balances heavy cream, which Greer frequently uses in his soups. (Firm, sweet-tart examples would be Empire, Honey Crisp and Cripp’s Pink—generic for Pink Lady.) Greer adds a dash of TABASCO® to this menu favorite and, of course, potato, which gives the soup body and makes it perfect for cool days.

Amy Traverso, chef and author of The Apple Lover’s Cookbook, says because all of them will eventually soften and cook down, any apple can be used in a soup. But, when cooking thicker soups, she says the tender McIntosh can really shine. Traverso explains, “It has a wonderful, intense flavor and breaks down so easily into a smooth purée.” Variety choice also depends on what you are trying to accomplish, according to Traverso. “Think about the level of sweetness you want in your soup. If you're making, say, a butternut-squash soup with a lot of sweetness, go with a sweeter apple like Gala or Fuji. If you want more acidity, you can use something tart like Granny Smith.”

The soup recipe Traverso enjoys making most is a chestnut soup made with roasted chestnuts, apple, onion, carrots, celery, chicken stock and just a little bit of cream, then topped with an apple-cranberry compote. “I love the contrast of the sweet-nutty-creamy chestnuts with the onion and the tart apples. It is the perfect fall soup. I also love doing a variation on cheddar-ale soup that uses dry hard cider instead of the ale,” says the apple aficionado. As does Greer, she likes using cider—either hard or sweet—to replace some of the stock in soup.

Traverso strives for a balance of sweet, salt and acidity, thinking of all the different ingredients that complement apples and also work well in soup. “I love assertive onion flavors in apple soup, especially caramelized onion,” and she also suggests bacon, cheeses, squash, sweet potatoes, other root vegetables and ginger as ingredients.

Robin Asbell, an expert in vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free cooking, says the Apple Barley Soup she created for her book Big Vegan is a sentimental favorite, “in part because I imagine my Scottish forebears eating it in a bog somewhere. It's also a lovely surprise, since most people don't think of apples as a soup ingredient, and it is genuinely comforting and light.”

Asbell says herbs like rosemary and thyme work well with apples, or you can go in a sweet direction by adding cinnamon, “just to re-emphasize that these are apples, and you know them well.” She says for a savory soup, a firm baking apple like a Granny Smith is her first choice, as it melds with the stock and other flavors without too much sweetness. For a chilled soup, she offers that a sweeter, crunchier apple is a nice accent.

As a former soup chef, Asbell is a big fan of croutons and garnishes, often dicing a Honey Crisp or Fuji as a final accoutrement. Apple chips or chunks of apple can float on a warm soup, or she suggests making a special crouton with complementary herbs and flavors, like cheddar cheese or even more apple. “Apples also love nuts,” claims Asbell, so she recommends that a few toasted, sliced almonds or a drizzle of nut oil would be a great finish to an apple soup.

Greer, too, mentions garnishing with apple chips. “I really like to slice the apples thin and then throw them into a food dehydrator to make chips. If I’m really motivated, I’ll do a quick pickle of those apple slices with a little red beet juice to add some beautiful color to the dish.” Similar to Asbell and Greer, Traverso enjoys playing around with presentation color and texture. “A little drizzle of a nice oil—maybe a walnut oil or good olive oil depending on the soup—makes such a nice presentation,” she says, “along with fresh herbs and a dollop of crème fraiche. Everyone loves a sprinkle of crisp bacon, if it works with the soup. Also consider doing a brunoise of apples that aren't prone to browning [such as Cortland or Gala] or a simple compote of apples, ginger, maybe chopped, dried cranberries for color.”

One thing that is definitely up to chef’s interpretation is whether to peel. Asbell says of the apples, peel, don't overcook, and if adding raw at the end, wait to chop until just before serving. Contrarily, Traverso reminds that apple peels have tremendous flavor (not to mention health benefits), and to consider keeping them on, particularly if you know you are going to purée the soup. Onions and leeks act as a flavor bridge between the sweet apples and the savory ingredients, so she advises being generous with them. Like Greer, she is a proponent of caramelizing and says, “Practice patience as you sweat or caramelize your aromatics—really let those flavors develop. And use good stock, of course.”

Most every “restoring shop” will indeed have soup, but not every restaurant will have a uniquely delicious apple soup. As you cook your way from A to Zucchini in the quest for that signature recipe, remember that apples are a cost-efficient foodservice option with year-round availability, variety/flavor choices galore, and clear versatility. Part of the fun, Greer says, is playing around—seeing what works and what doesn’t—and being amazed by what works when you least expect it. Maybe even try an apple sausage soup. No offense to our friends in the Netherlands, but soup flavored with sweet-tart apples and savory sausage sounds a little better than snert.

Wendy Brannen is an AP-award winning journalist turned produce marketer. Most recently executive director of the Vidalia® Onion Committee, she now lives in Washington, D.C., and works for the U.S. Apple Association as director of consumer health and public relations.

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